At 5 a.m. every morning, in a corner of Panama's Allbrook Airport, chaos reigns in a riot of color. Kuna men and women, dressed traditionally in their bright red headdresses and intricately embroidered mola blouses, mill around, while a handful of tourists wait in line looking bewildered. At 6 a.m. the first of the small planes leaves the highrises and traffic jams of Panama City to fly over the rainforest of the Continental Divide and down the Caribbean coast. In 40 minutes, the early morning mists clear, revealing the coast below and the sea scattered with tiny islands.
